I felt
extreme lassitude, and exhaustion followed the slightest effort; but
the use of snow to the head produced great relief. The water in our
canteens was hard frozen, and the keenness of the cold aggravated
the uncomfortable symptoms which accompany pulses at 110 degrees.
The native guide was the only person capable of work, so we were
late in getting off, and rode four and a half hours to the camping
ground, only stopping once to tighten our girths. Not a rope,
strap, or buckle, or any of our gear gave way, and though I rode
without a crupper, the breeching of a pack mule's saddle kept mine
steady.
The descent, to the riders, is far more trying than the ascent,
owing to the continued stretch of very steep declivity for eight
thousand feet; but our mules never tripped, and came into Ainepo as
if they had not travelled at all. The horses were terribly cut,
both again in the a-a stream, and on the descent. It was sickening
to follow them, for at first they left fragments of hide and hair on
the rocks, then flesh, and when there was no more hide or flesh to
come off their poor heels and fetlocks, blood dripped on every rock,
and if they stood still for a few moments, every hoof left a little
puddle of gore.
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