Our visit seemed in vain, for
on the risky verge of this crack we could only get momentary
glimpses of wallowing fire, glaring lurid through dense masses of
furious smoke which were rolling themselves round in the abyss as if
driven by a hurricane.
After failing to get a better standpoint, we suffered so much from
the gases, that we coasted the north, till we reached the south
lake, one with the other on my former visit, but now separated by a
solid lava barrier about three hundred feet broad, and eighty high.
Here there was comparatively little smoke, and the whole mass of
contained lava was ebullient and incandescent, its level marked the
whole way round by a shelf or rim of molten lava, which adhered to
the side, as ice often adheres to the margin of rapids, when the
rest of the water is liberated and in motion. There was very little
centripetal action apparent. Though the mass was violently agitated
it always took a southerly direction, and dashed itself with fearful
violence against some lofty, undermined cliffs which formed its
southern limit. The whole region vibrated with the shock of the
fiery surges. To stand there was "to snatch a fearful joy," out of
a pain and terror which were unendurable.
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