Beside their
splendour and stateliness, the forty officers of the English and
American war-ships, though all in full-dress uniform, looked
decidedly insignificant; and I doubt not that the natives who were
assembled outside the garden railings in crowds were not behind me
in making invidious comparisons.
Chairs and benches were placed under the beautiful trees, and people
grouped themselves on these, and promenaded, flirted, talked
politics and gossip, or listened to the royal band, which played at
intervals, and played well. The dress of the ladies, whether white
or coloured, was both pretty and appropriate. Most of the younger
women were in white, and wore natural flowers in their hair; and
many of the elder ladies wore black or coloured silks, with lace and
trains. There were several beautiful leis of the gardenia, which
filled all the garden with their delicious odour. Tea and ices were
handed round on Sevres china by footmen and pages in appropriate
liveries. What a wonderful leap from calabashes and poi, malos and
paus, to this correct and tasteful civilization! As soon as the
brief amber twilight of the tropics was over, the garden was
suddenly illuminated by myriads of Chinese lanterns, and the effect
was bewitching.
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