This bay, which affords excellent holding ground, and is screened by
highlands from the sudden and violent gusts of wind, called
"mumuku," which sweep down between the mountains with almost
irresistible fury, used to be a great place of call for whalers, who
purchased large quantities of "recruits" here; yams in the earlier
days, and more lately Irish potatoes, which flourish in the thirsty
soil. But whaling in the North Pacific seems to be nearly "played
out," and the arrival of a whaler is not a common occurrence.
Shortly before we arrived I found that the sailing of the San
Francisco steamer is put off for a week, so I took advantage of a
kind invitation I received some time ago to visit Waimea, and go
from thence to Waimanu, a wonderful valley beyond Waipio, very
little visited by foreigners. A gentleman and lady rode up here
with me, and I got a horse on the beach with a native bullock saddle
on him, an uncouth contrivance of wood not covered with hide, and a
strong lassoing horn. The great wooden stirrups could not be
shortened, but I soon found myself able, in true savage fashion, to
gallop up and down hill without any.
The chief object of interest on this ride is the great heiau, which
stands on a bare steep hill above the sea, not easy of access.
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