We saw all this from the moment we reached
the pali; and it enlarged, and the detail grew upon us with every
yard of the laborious descent of broken craggy track, which is the
only mode of access to the valley from the outer world. I got down
on foot with difficulty; a difficulty much increased by the long
rowels of my spurs, which caught on the rocks and entangled my
dress, the simple expedient of taking them off not having occurred
to me!
A neat frame-house, with large stones between it and the river, was
our destination. It belongs to a native named Halemanu, a great man
in the district, for, besides being a member of the legislature, he
is deputy sheriff. He is a man of property, also; and though he
cannot speak a word of English, he is well educated in Hawaiian, and
writes an excellent hand. I brought a letter of introduction to him
from Mr. Severance, and we were at once received with every
hospitality, our horses cared for, and ourselves luxuriously lodged.
We walked up the valley before dark to get a view of a cascade, and
found supper ready on our return. This is such luxury after last
night. There is a very light bright sitting-room, with papered
walls, and manilla matting on the floor, a round centre table with
books and a photographic album upon it, two rocking-chairs, an
office-desk, another table and chairs, and a Canadian lounge.
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