There are native churches at
distances of six or seven miles all the way from Hilo, but they seem
too large and too many for the scanty population.
We moved on in single file at a jog-trot wherever the road admitted
of it, meeting mounted natives now and then, which led to a delay
for the exchange of nuhou; and twice we had to turn into the thicket
to avoid what here seems to be considered a danger. There are many
large herds of semi-wild bullocks on the mountains, branded cattle,
as distinguished from the wild or unbranded, and when they are
wanted for food, a number of experienced vaccheros on strong shod
horses go up, and drive forty or fifty of them down. We met such a
drove bound for Hilo, with one or two men in front and others at the
sides and behind, uttering loud shouts. The bullocks are nearly mad
with being hunted and driven, and at times rush like a living
tornado, tearing up the earth with their horns. As soon as the
galloping riders are seen and the crooked-horned beasts, you retire
behind a screen. There must be some tradition of some one having
been knocked down and hurt, for reckless as the natives are said to
be, they are careful about this, and we were warned several times by
travellers whom we met, that there were "bullocks ahead.
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