This lake, the Hale-mau-mau, or House of Everlasting Fire of the
Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele, is
approachable with safety except during an eruption. The spectacle,
however, varies almost daily, and at times the level of the lava in
the pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are
evolved in such enormous quantities, that travellers are unable to
see anything. There had been no news from it for a week, and as
nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapour hanging round
its margin, the prospect was not encouraging.
When I have learned more about the Hawaiian volcanoes, I shall tell
you more of their phenomena, but tonight I shall only write to you
my first impressions of what we actually saw on this January 31st.
My highest expectations have been infinitely exceeded, and I can
hardly write soberly after such a spectacle, especially while
through the open door I see the fiery clouds of vapour from the pit
rolling up into a sky, glowing as if itself on fire.
We were accompanied into the crater by a comical native guide, who
mimicked us constantly, our Hilo guide, who "makes up" a little
English, a native woman from Kona, who speaks imperfect English
poetically, and her brother who speaks none.
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