Gruyere mates
with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most
commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French
cheeses.
Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being
Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French
Neufchatel cheese and Swiss Neuchatel wine from just across the
border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben
(grape cheese), named from the Neuchatel wine in which it is aged.
One kind of French Neufchatel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited
to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape
and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas
(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly
suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian
Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The
affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven.
Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with
wines, according to these matches registered by Andre Simon in _The
Art of Good Living:_
Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port
White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry
Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port
Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port
To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of
Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer.
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