But to differentiate and
show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage
Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue a la Biere.
Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous,
rhapsodic writing about Gruyere and its offspring, the Fondue,
together with the puffed Souffle, than about any other imported cheese
except Parmesan.
Parmesan and Gruyere were praised as the two greatest culinary
cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese.
Parmesan Fondue
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 eggs, lightly beaten
Salt
Pepper
Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the
eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only,
until smooth.
Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the
ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a
fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough.
Sapsago Swiss Fondue
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups milk
2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese
2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago
1/2 cup dry white wine
Pepper, black and red, freshly ground
Fingers of toast
Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth,
fairly thick cream sauce.
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