In his monumental _Physiologie du Gout_ he records an
incident that occurred in 1795:
Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the restaurant-keeper
Julien to make a _Fondue_, or eggs cooked with cheese. This dish,
a novelty to the Americans, became so much the rage, that he
(Julien) felt himself obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to
New York the rump of one of those pretty little roebucks that are
brought from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite
by the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion.
As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss border (at
Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where Gertrude Stein later
had a summer home), he no doubt ate Gruyere three times a day, as is
the custom in Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe
just as he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur
Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne:
Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the number of
your guests.
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