Victor Meusy
Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkaese, grand Gruyere from
France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and
glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making
and quality of flavor. They must be uniform, roundish, about the size
of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye
of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear.
Gruyere does not see eye to eye with the big-holed Swiss Saanen
cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny holes, and many of them;
let us say it is freckled with pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This
variety is technically called a _niszler_, while one without any holes
at all is "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles.
Gruyere Trauben (Grape Gruyere) is aged in Neuchatel wine in
Switzerland, although most Gruyere has been made in France since its
introduction there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and
another is called Comte from its origin in Franche-Comte.
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